Tubbataha: The Underwater Wonder

And so it happened!

Our hearts were set to Tubbataha this season, even if it means we had to put our faith in Expedition Fleet once again. It's funny how we were all mum about the whole thing, up to the night before we leave for Puerto Princesa, a complete opposite to the noise barrage we created the first time. Obviously we were afraid to jinx ourselves. Vangie, Zara, and I purposely didn't book the last flight to Puerto Princesa, so that we have room for flight cancellation or delays. We were skeptical like that. :)

When the boat set sail at 7:00 p.m., we were bursting with excitement but tried (really hard) to conceal it. Stephen would periodically remind everyone, bawal magsaya (no display of happiness), because the last time, we also sailed, but ended up in Mamburao (hence, the group name). It was deja vu when the boat manager did his briefing. We were rowdy and cracked plenty of inside jokes that we had to explain to our boat mates what happened the last time (flashback: Almost Tubbataha). We were 10 from the old gang and made up half of the divers.

I awoke the next day and heard Lau-tzu said:
"The journey of a thousand miles brought you to Tubbataha.

Tubbataha was everything promised and more! The minute we back rolled into the water, I'm transported into a fantasy world of bedazzling colors and shapes. It was feast for the eyes to have enchanting wall of corals to one side and bottomless abyss of blue on another.

For 50 minutes every time, I feel like a part of the underwater world, finning weighlessly alongside free swimming pelagics: sharks! school of jacks, barracudas, sea turtles, rays, wrasses, groupers, and all those I have yet to consult my fish book.

Now speaking of sharks, everyone I know knew the sharks had been elusive to me. With almost a hundred dives before this trip, I have never seen one! I warned my dive buddies that I am a living shark repellant.

But Tubbataha broke this spell. On my very first dive at the ATOL, I encountered my first to 50th shark!

And the succeeding dives after, we continue to encounter them.

Delsan is a super highway at rush hour where it literally confused us where to focus our attention. We saw a turtle digging as if the world depended on it, then came a densely packed school of jacks on the left, then to our right a long school of barracuda trailed by a couple of white tip sharks. Seriously, were we in Shark Tale?

slide photos by Neil Que, Stephen David, & DM Padoy

This is also where I dove the deepest at 40m. I actually didn’t realize it was already so deep because of the incredible visibility.

I was told by many that by third day, I’ll be tired of sharks. They were obviously kidding. On our last day of diving, at the Shark Airport, where full grown sharks rest at shallow depth, my heart still beats like mad at the the close encounters. It was a fantastic way to wrap this dive expedition.

clip by Zara Arzadon

Life in Tubbataha is out of this world.

Literally, it's "eat, dive, sleep, repeat."

We did 4 dives per day and food is served 5 times a day. If we were not doing either, we were talking about diving, reading books on fish, watching videos about the ocean, or looking at photos and videos taken that morning dives.

During the introduction by the boat manager at the beginning of the trip, he told us that we will be hearing bells a few times a day. This will only mean two things, either it’s time to eat, or it’s time to dive. And if we were confused which is which, he suggested to just touch your hair. If hair is wet, it’s time to eat. If it’s dry, it’s time to dive. It's funny but we've heard the line the last time. :)

This trip was made 10x more memorable because it was shared with a bunch of my closest buddies. I'm super glad I decided to rebook for this trip. Who else but your dearest friends would celebrate your 100th dive with a full production? We set aside time for photo shoot and a surprise awarding of my SDI Advance Rescue C-Card by my friend and instructor, Neil Q.

photos by Stephen P. David

On our last day, we visited the ranger station on a beautiful islet of white sand. A team of rangers is stationed all year round to police the reef. We went over to say hello, photo ops, and bought souvenirs that help fund the Tubbataha organization.

The one with the Ranger Station

As if life is not already perfect, every night, we were greeted by the most glorious sunset. A firework of colors that left everyone enthralled and breathless as we prepare to rest for another wonderful day of diving.

Roll Call of Mamburao 10

Zara, Vangie, Monette, Bembong, Kriz, Neil, Stephen, Michael, Bernard, and yours truly.

Tubbataha Dive Log:

Day One (April 17, 2010)
Dive # 1: Amos Rock
Dive # 2: Gorgonian Channel
Dive # 3: Wall St. - Amos Rock
Dive # 4: South Park

Day Two (April 18, 2010)
Dive # 5: Ko-ok - South Islet
Dive # 6: Lighthouse
Dive # 7: Staghorn
Dive # 8: Delsan Wreck/Crack

Day Three (April 19, 2010)
Dive # 9: Delsan Wreck/Crack
Dive # 10: Delsan Wreck/Crack
Dive # 11: Delsan Wreck/Crack
Dive # 12: Staghorn/Triggerfish City

Day Four (April 20, 2010)
Dive # 13: Black Rock
Dive # 14: Black Rock
Dive # 15: Malayan Wreck
Dive # 16: Ranger Station

Day Five (April 21, 2010)
Dive # 17: Washing Machine
Dive # 18: Shark Airport
Dive # 19: Washing Machine
Dive # 20: Washing Machine

Additional Note:

On April 6, 2010, Republic Act No. 10067 was signed into law by President Gloria Macapagal. The landmark law establishes a 10-mile buffer zone around the park and increases the penalty of violators where the fund will be for the sole use of its management.

Fore more tubbataha info: www.tubbatahareef.org

the evil sisters promote Philippine diving

almost tubba, but not quite

when you've been planning for a trip for almost a year already - money, time, equipment, & mind set - only to be told by the boat manager that there's a problem in the boat's bearing after only about 6hrs into the open sea and can't possibly proceed to sail to Apo / Tubbataha, you'd challenge Murphy's Law and push your way to salvage the trip.

saturday morning, when we're supposed to have finished our 1st Apo dive, we learned that Borneo Explorer is on its way to Mamburao waters (where we were stranded) so we can transfer and continue the trip. oblivious of what to be announced that night, we opted to maximize the day by doing an exploratory dive around the area. the dive spot being too close to a fishing village, and not protected under Marine Park jurisdiction, there was literally no life at all, or was there? i can't actually remember. the 50min dive was longer than i can recall. i was sooo bored that i chose to skip the second dive. it didn't help to think that around that time we should already be in Apo Reef and frolicking on the beauty of the splendid marine biodiversity of the atoll.

8ish that night, as BE gets closer to us, our hopes were high that we'd sail in a few hours and would miss only about 2 dives in Cuyo Island. but another bomb was dropped when we were told by G, the boat manager, that the owner, Mr. Wee, wanted both boats back in Anilao and will just cancel the trip. Mr. Wee sent BE to tow PE2 and not to actually pick us up to sail forward to Apo/ Tubba. with 24 fully paid divers, and very eager not to waste the week trip, despite the frustration, came to a compromise to agree to be towed back on the premise that as soon as the boats reached Anilao, will board BE and head to Apo/ Tubba immediately. we all understood that we lost 2 diving days already, but who the hell cares? we wanted the trip sooo bad, and we're all willing to bend our backs. we thought we'd deal with the owner, once the trip is over.

Sunday morning bout 7ish, when we're supposed to have finished our 1st dive in Cuyo, we were again hit by another devastating news, Mr. Wee wanted us to disembark and just refund the money we paid for the trip, just that! no discussion, no negotiation! As if money was the only concern of the divers who have planned this trip and redesigned their schedules so as to be able to have an 8-day dive trip.

everyone was so furious, as we, the clients, felt we have been bending our backs when there was no effort on the other side of the table at all. he didn't even try to call any of us to hear our compromise just to proceed the Apo/ Tubba trip.

it was a perfect example of bad business practice - not delivering to your clients what has been agreed and not knowing how to handle crisis properly. arrrrrg!!! it boils down to the fact too that Cruise Island Adventure (more known as Scuba World) has the monopoly of the Tubbataha route, thus the less care for clients so much so of their safety.

as we were left without a choice, we disembarked the boat and trusted that they will keep their word of a full refund the next day (monday). we were though offered a free overnight stay at Outrigger Resort (owned by Mr. Wee too), and do dives for free for that day.

of the 24 divers, 18 stayed overnight and enjoyed the day whilst planning for the next best alternative for the failed tubba trip. within few hours, 13 divers were booked for a flight to Busuanga and do ship wrecked dives instead.

sunday, 10ish evening, abs-cbn batangas went to the resort to interview our group. we wanted to make sure that CIA owner understands the gravity of the situation - safety & bad business practice.

PE2 is solely dedicated for tubba trips with March to June season only. they had july to feb to ensure that their boats are fit to sail to commence new tubba season. how on earth can a bearing be overlooked (when it's actually a wear and tear part of the engine) and be the source of failure? 24 divers along with at least a 10-member boat crew's safety were put to risk, by letting an unfit boat sail to open seas. something worse could have happened if it wasn't discovered right away.

next morning, Monday, we were driven back to Manila at the resort's expense, and headed straight to CIA/ Scuba World's office. we were actually prepared for a long and unpleasant argument with the owner, but we were surprised that the discussion went like a breeze - full refund, including booked flights to Palawan. he was apologetic and looked like he didn't know any better when he made the decision to tow us back. he even said he didn't know we were ready to make a compromises and cut the tubba dive days. we don't actually know who was telling the truth -the boat manager or the owner. was he really unaware of the compromises willing to take just to proceed the trip which we have clearly expressed to G, or was he just trying to cover his @$$e from embarassment?

whilst others opted to refund the money - our foreign friends who can't possibly stay longer in MNL for a rebooked trip - majority chose to rebook a later date.

have to mention though how accommodating and extra apologetic the crew members were when we're still on the boat. even when we were already at the resort, they took care of us unconditionally. Mr.Wee is lucky to have very good employees like them.

we dashed to the airport to catch a 1PM flight. lo & behold!!! just after we've haggled (but failed) to give us a free kg for each head as we checked-in our baggage (with already prepaid addl 5kg each), we heard the PA of our flight's cancellation due to bush fire at the Busuanga Airport!!!

i never felt Murphy's law as i did that day. we were so bummed we were stripped off with emotions. we thought if the world was indeed conspiring against us, why were we spared in the open seas? how did we manage to get a booking to Coron in a snap? obviously our unbreakable spirits are in the works.

we managed to get a rebooking on the next earliest flight the next day. i said though to Z, if after tomorrow's attempt, we'd again fail, i'd accept defeat, let go of the week-long holiday and head home.

determined not to miss our early morning flight the next day, we decided to spend overnight at K's place at Magallanes and relaxed the night away. we called masseuse to come over her place and had an awesome an hour and a half massage :-)

7ish of Tuesday morning, it felt like deja vu to be back at the airport and queue for our baggages to be checked-in. we lack the strength already to negotiate for the baggage allowance so we just paid whatever the officer charged us. it's past the baording time already when we heard another announcement - "Flight 5J5298 bound to Busuanga is temporarily on-hold due to low visibility around the area. please wait for further announcement in the next 15minutes."

for people who had mishaps after mishaps for the past 4 days, 15minutes mean an eternity of waiting! there wasn't a word uttered, wasn't a complaint vented. silence was the prevailing element.

until a real upper was announced. flight pushed thru and in a little over an hour, we have landed the busuanga airport!!!

we were quick to let go of a guffaw and articulated - "F-I-N-A-L-L-Y!!!!!"

what we went through the past days was unimaginable. and to finally set foot again in Coron was an effin relief!!! i whispered to myself, 'thank God we're safe'

we may have failed to conquer Apo Reef / Tubbataha Reef, but we're blessed a hundred fold over to gain new dive buddies!!! amidst all that went on in the past days, we were actually still having fun.

we may have been deprived to experience Tubbataha's beauty that time, but we have experienced real & beautiful friendship!!! how can i complain?

***

- Coron adventure on my next post :-)

- photos from indayguapa, jayvzter, bembong, boni & suzette


- cross-posted to wandersoles

Weekend Resort Hideaways

Cuttlefish photo by Junjie Koh, jacks photo by Jay Ortiz

The blue waters of Batangas—being only a two-hour-and-a-half drive from Manila—have “baptized” many, me included, into the diving community. That Independence Day weekend seven years ago proved fitting as I surfaced from my open water check-out dive with a larger appreciation of two-thirds of our planet. Fortunately for me, along with that initiation into a submerged world came a built-in network all set to walk, er, fin every novice diver through it.

My own set of teachers consists of: Jay Ortiz (mobile 0917-8992000), who took me from house reef to liveaboard diving; Jimbo Jimenez (mobile 0920-9509631), first to introduce me to night diving; and Ian Paredes (0917-8395515) who gave me my advanced certification. All three are fathers, businessmen, and—long before they were either—avid divers, who, in their over-a-decade underwater exploration and instruction, can easily point to where I want or need to go next. And that includes (even before gearing up and getting into a dive banca) planning where to stay in Batangas.

With diving in its waters being possible all year round (though between November and June—sitting out the typhoon season—is best), its coastline is adorned with resorts that spoil divers for choice. Jay, Ian, and Jimbo help narrow it down by naming the ones they most frequent.

Ardent divers who naturally want to get more dives for their money go to Aquaventure Reef Club (tel. 5326681, mobile 09189291648) in Anilao. Overnight packages that include four buffet meals range from P2,700 per person for twin sharing to P3,200 for single occupancy. Day trip charge is at least P500. Jay and Ian both cite the friendly staff and excellent service. “Still the best buffet food,” Jimbo says. “Their restaurant also prepares ala carte meals,” Ian adds. Jay describes its party atmosphere as welcoming especially to new divers. An open-air bar invites sunset cocktails by the deck that lead into fun evening get-togethers.

Solana (mobile 0917-3001086) in San Teodoro, Mabini also gets the thumbs-up for its facilities, service, food, and laidback ambiance. “When you want a weekend getaway that’s similar to Palawan resorts, this is the place,” Jay says. Ian counts as bonus “the seasonal beach that forms in front of the house reef.” Their beachfront and hillside rooms (air conditioned with hot shower and intercom) have their own spacious veranda for taking in the panoramic sight of sea and sky. Rates range from $90 to $150 per head per night.

If you want to bring a non-diver date, Jay says, you can’t go wrong with Planet Dive (tel. 9063898, mobile 0927-2308008) in San Teodoro, Mabini. “Right in front of the resort is a nice reef for diving or snorkeling.” Jimbo also notes that the resort is close to the dive sites, and its ocean-view rooms are perfectly relaxing. Day trip rates range from P700 for a non-diver (includes buffet lunch, use of snorkeling gear and kayak) to P1,500 for a diver (includes buffet lunch, two boat dives, and unlimited shore dives). Overnight packages bundling four buffet meals range from P1,800 per non-diver for quad sharing to P4,300 per diver for single occupancy.

Dive & Trek (tel. 8518746, mobile 0920-9064123) in San Pablo, Bauan gets Ian’s best-value-for-money award. As he puts it, “Where else in Anilao can you find a school of jacks, pawikan, and sharks less than 100 meters from the shore?” Jimbo confirms the appeal of “unlimited diving in what can be argued as the best house reef in Batangas.” Jay adds that non-divers, with mask and snorkel, can also experience the marine sanctuary’s teeming reef life. The resort has a seaside swimming pool, volleyball court, and conference rooms. Rates range from P1,350 (day trip snorkeling package with lunch and boat transfers) to P4,350 (overnight package includes an air-conditioned room, four meals, and unlimited dives).

Eagle Point (tel. 8133553, mobile 09178544944) in Bagalangit, Mabini is ideal for families or groups with non-divers, Ian says, because of its swimming pools (saltwater and freshwater, the latter with waterfalls and waterslide), children’s playground, game room, cable TV and other creature comforts. Jimbo says the saltwater pool houses baby sharks rescued from fishermen’s nets for rehabilitation before eventual release—raising marine conservation awareness among guests who are invited to look, even swim with them, but not touch. Overnight rates per person range from P2,800 for triple sharing in a fan room to P5,950 for single occupancy in an air-conditioned room. A day tour package per person costs P1,600.

The fusion cuisine of Pier Uno (tel. 7437576, mobile 0917-8081877) in Anilao has reeled in Jay. “They put their own touch on a variety of Filipino, Chinese, and American dishes.” Jimbo is equally captivated with the resort’s set up of Casita rooms (from P2,200 per person for quad sharing to P4,100 single occupancy) and Kubo rooms (P2,500 per person for twin sharing and P3,200 per person for single occupancy).These overnight rates in air-conditioned rooms with hot showers (plus Cable TV for Casita) include four buffet meals. “The service is amazing,” Jimbo adds, and with the parking area located right beside the rooms, “no long walks or steep steps.”

Portulano (mobile 0917-5404257) in Bauan, according to Jay, has great food and service (“feels personalized”) while Jimbo specifically mentions how the doors to the room can be fully opened for the breeze and breathtaking view. Sunrise to night sky can be enjoyed from your own private veranda. Overnight packages per person which include four meals range from P2,150 for quad sharing in a fan room to P5,300 for single occupancy in an air-conditioned room.

Built on a rocky slope in San Teodoro Mabini, the cottages of Balai (tel. 240-2927) offer tree-framed views of the sea. “Balai’s environment is perfect for guests who enjoy just hanging-out,” Ian says. “Nice open-air lounge,” agrees Jay, “and superb food.” Overnight non-diver packages (four buffet meals and hot shower included) range from P1,850 for triple sharing to P2,800 for single occupancy. Overnight diver packages (two dives a day for two days, dive boat fees, dive master services included) range from P3,300 triple sharing to P4,250 single occupancy. For those who can’t sleep without air conditioning, Balai charges an additional P600 per night.

When Jimbo wants peace and quiet, his choice is Club Ocellaris (tel. 6721451, mobile 09178901073) in Anilao. Sharing a resort meal (described as world-class) and conversation with owner-operator and instructor Boy Venus leave you in awe of the unusual and rare critters found in Batangas waters. Many photographers keen on documenting that beauty underwater consider Ocellaris as “headquarters.” And yes, the resort is named after the bright orange-and-white Ocellaris Clownfish whose symbiotic relationship with its host anemone Boy likens to us and our fragile environment. In keeping with the private feel of Ocellaris (like you’ve been invited to be a special guest in a friend’s vacation house), email boyv@clubocellaris.com to request for rates.

Jimbo has Villa Ligaya (tel. 896-6016) in Anilao on his list for their speedboats. Departing in the morning for, say, Puerto Galera or Verde Island which takes 45 minutes one-way, you can do two dives out, be back in Anilao around lunch time, and still decide if you want a third dive. An overnight package which covers buffet meals (three on weekdays, four on weekends) ranges from P1,450 for fan dorms to P3,500 for air-conditoned single-occupancy rooms. A day trip which includes a buffet lunch costs P600. Kids aged two to seven get 50% off; and if they’re younger, they’re free-of-charge.

Rockport Beach Resort (tel. 043-4080671, mobile 09175319158) is situated in a protected cove in Balite, San Luis. The motto here is “Life is good!”—which, over the years, Jay has adopted as a personal philosophy too. (Talk about positive influence.) Day trip rate per person which includes a room and buffet lunch is P600; P500 if you don’t need a room. Overnight accommodation with three buffet meals cost P1,550 with any extra meal at P350. Jay especially enjoys Rockport’s chicken pandan and lumpiang bangus. Also a plus for him is the convenience of being able to park his vehicle near the cottages.

For non-divers, any of these resorts can arrange for island hopping, cruising, private beach picnics, kayaking, trekking, recreational games, snorkeling, intro-diving—whatever you need to feel that, indeed, life is good. Certainly, every time my boat heads back to the resort after the day’s last dive, I find myself looking forward to the waiting meal and companionship, warming the heart like the comforts of home.